Tuesday 7 September 2010

Take a look at the hands

Have you ever take a look at the hands on your watch seriously?

Have you ever know how to make it and how to put it in the right position on the dial?

The hands historyThe first watch was born in 16 century. There was only one hand for hour indicator at that time. The other hand was born in 1691. 2 days to made that just 2 hands because it was a hand made in every process.Each hand have a name depend on their physical property or the first designer name. It doesn't mean that every shape of hands will have a name because some of them develop from the classical shape one. The classical hands shape such as Barton shaped, Skeleton Barton shaped, Leaf shaped, Dauphine (Geneva) shaped, Brequet Antique shaped and Brequet Empire shaped.Watch hands manufacturerThere were approximately 60 watch hands manufacturers in early 19 century distributed to many brands. With a high technology now a day, there are approximately 6 manufacturers locate in watch manufacturing area in Switzerland including Jura mountains in Geneva such as Fiedler, Universo, Waeber, Estima and Aiguilla.To maintain the watch hands manufacturing identity of each manufacturer, they organized the association call Groupment des fabricants d'aiguilles pour I'horlogorie (GFSAH or Group of Swiss Manufacturer of Watch Hands). Swiss watch manufacturers have the right to meet every watch hands manufacturer to find out the property, manufacturing skill for their watch.Watch hands making technicWatch hands manufacturers carry on craft skill including every importance work process. It is the fusion of technic and accuracy which is very importance to have a perfect watch hands to fit with the dial. It's a mixing of quality and esthetic that watch manufacturer like to have. In fact, there is no teaching or transferring from generation to generation. The only way to know is just do it and fine some from the specialist until found the essence.Watch hands making processSome time there are 40 step need to make just a small watch hand. Here is a sample of Barton Shaped hand watch basic making process.First, cut a sheet of gold or brass or silver or etc., into a blank then press it until thin. Cut the thin blank material by watch hand die. May need to repeat die cutting for a Skeleton Barton shaped watch hand. The cut watch hand take around 10% of a blank material. The scrap will recycle again.Next is a coating process. The watch hand will polish before coating. Electroplating is using in this process. Need no coat for gold material but might do some painting or coating with glow substance. Then make a hole on the hand for assembly.Put the finished hand in a small bag by a plier, around 10 pairs a bag. Then transfer to a watchmaker.All process are craft only, no any machine.Watch hands is needed for every watch except digital watch. Watch hands maker give a special care to them because it is the time indicator. We some time shall praise for the watch hands by watching their moving and you will find what special they are.

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